The church doors were locked and I had no place to go. My roommate Maia and I were on our first solo expedition through Roma and, typical to Italian form, we began the journey late: ugly Americans. After two failed touristy attempts, Maia and I decided to venture farther into Central Roma, where the concrete tidal wave of standing ruins among fallen civilizations stood tall.
So Via della Luce intersects Via del Genovesi where we should turn right but not before passing Santa Cecilia in Trastevere?
We arrived in Campo dei Fiori. A bronze statue of Giordano Bruno stood front and center. In the 1600s, Rome's political environment was not one to be trifled with; political thought centered around the pope's every whim. Bruno, the bronze, had the nerve to suggest the separation between church and state--
that was an unpopular idea. Bruno was tried for his opinions, convicted of heresy, and burnt at the stake. Now, a fountain stands where his ashes fell. Today, the Campo seemed like a hectic place where sullen street vendors always accepted the lowest price haggled. But, in less than modern times, this piazza was the center for intellectuals and anti-establishment thinkers. Maia and I stopped to look at small statues of the piazza and, fearing confrontation with the street vendors, we walked on.
Next, we went to Piazza Navona, most notably the most beautiful piazza in all of Rome. The piazza is actually an old stadium, with its elliptical shape honoring its ancient history. Maia and I walked in, and immediately saw street performers dancing with rubber chickens, to vast entertainment of crowds gathered around. The acts were hilarious, but always came to a close: nothing compared to the permanent fontanas of yesteryear. In the center of the piazza is Fontana di Fiumi, a massive statue depicting the four great rivers of the 17th century: the Danube in Europe, the Ganges in Asia, the Nile in Africa and the Rio de la Plata in the New World. Gian Lorenzo Bernini, the man behind the fountain, apparently stole the fontana's commission from the artist Borromini. Borromini built the Church of Sant'Agnese in Agone, the chiesa next to Piazza Navona, and was commissioned to build the Fontana di Fiumi as well: until Bernini "stepped in" with the Pope's sister. After that, the pope's mind was promptly changed. Art vendors began to set up their paintings in the piazza and, as the piazza dimensions were slowly watercolored from three to two, Maia and I left for our last stop of the day: the Pantheon.
I've visited Rome once before with my grandparents, and the Pantheon was my favorite site.
Today, my memory did not disappoint. It was later in the day, but the low light still dissolved the faded columns in my mind. The view was impressive. The ceiling of the Pantheon is a large dome, meant to represent the sky, with a hole cut in the center, to represent the sun. It is a 2,000 year old pagan church, which, in the 17th century made the conversion to Catholicism. This change in ideology is said to have fostered preservative attempts. Pope Boniface IV oversaw this change and transferred over 28 cartloads of bones of martyrs there. Raphael, the painter, is buried in the Pantheon. It is the best-preserved and, in my opinion, most beautiful structure in all of Rome.
We exited the Pantheon, and outside the sky fell purple: the international monopoly sign to head directly home. The bus ride back was uneventful and, as we passed gates shutting, with neon "open" signs burning "closed," the Eternal City glowed on, with 2,000 years of ruinous memory and civilization standing in the careful moonlight.